Beacon Hill: Single Windows

The single windows of the Beacon Hill are pretty straightforward. I remember when putting together the Fairfield, I couldn’t make the windows look decent, so I purchased Houseworks windows, but I like how they designed the Beacon Hill ones. They’ve made them so you can paint the parts different colors for a nice contrast.


The pieces: 3 sill parts (the short, horizontal ones), 3 top trim parts, two window sashes (the ones with the crosspiece), two exterior trim pieces (side by side on the left), the outside sill trim piece, and the interior trim (on the right).


I labeled the sill and top trim pieces to keep them separate. They are actually the same size, it turned out, so if you get them mixed up it’s ok–as long as you have a small, medium, and large of each.


The sill pieces ready to go in on my dry run (I highly recommend a dry run before you start painting and gluing!) The pieces go in this order: 1) small 2) medium, 3) large


The smallest sill piece in place on the bottom of the window. I had to enlarge the notches a little with a needle file.


Medium sill piece goes on top of small.


Large sill piece on top.


What it looks like edge on.


The top trim pieces are the same, except they go on 1) large, 2) medium, 3) small.


The large top trim in place.


Edge on so you can see large, medium, small.


Sashes. The clear window plastic will go between these.


Taped together for the dry run.


Sash set in place (not glued yet).


The narrower exterior trim piece goes on top of the thicker one.


The exterior piece taped together for the dry run and put in place over the window sash.


The sill trim piece goes here.


The whole thing.


Now to paint. I decided to paint the exterior sash the red to go with my color scheme.


The exterior trim painted and glued together.


The edges of the trim are rough, so I spackled and sanded to get a more even surface.


The plastic sheet of window panes. The amazing thing is that in all the years of this kit sitting in my closet–I didn’t lose the plastic sheet! It hasn’t been inside the box for ages. A miracle.


I’ve glued in the painted sills and top trim pieces.


The two sash pieces are glued together with the plastic sheet sandwiched in between. The sash is now glued into the window opening. It should fit exactly–if not, sand the opening (another reason to do a dry run first).


The exterior trim on the window, and the sill piece glued below. It needs a little sanding and finishing (this kit has many raw edges), but the window is complete. (I will do the interior trim when I finish the interior).


First window complete. The red of the sash picks up the red in the porch trim.


The tower window done as well.


All three front windows in place. This is starting to look like a house!

Next post–the kitchen bay window.

Happy New Year!

Beacon Hill: Mansard Roof Trim

The mansard roof trim is pretty straightforward. First it’s best to punch out and label all the pieces according to the schematic sheet. (There is both horizontal and vertical trim.) I used a sharpie to write the names on the back–the backs won’t show once the pieces are glued on.

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Notice the each of the curved mansard trim pieces form a pair, one curved right and one left. (These look like cartoon palm trees to me :-))


Also note that there is a definite top and bottom to each pair. The top has a more square angle, the bottom is more angular. The squarer end goes at the top against the top roof trim.

First, the straight pieces go horizontally across the top of the roof on the right side of the house, and vertically on the front against the tower as here:


The horizontal top trim piece on the right side of the house and the vertical piece on the back.


Now for the curved pieces. Note how the squarer end goes against the horizontal trim from the last step and ends at the bottom trim.


I used plenty of tape to hold these pieces in place until the glue set.


You’ll see I have an ugly gap. This is because the pieces don’t compensate for the thickness of the shingles. I have a layer of shingles and a layer of thin cardboard beneath it, which has distorted the dimensions of the roof.

I could have 1) compensated and only shingled to where the trim piece would fall; or 2) used sandpaper or paint to simulate shingles instead of using real ones.

Live and learn. I came up with a solution to fill the gap, which I’ll show later.


The tower top horizontal pieces. Notice that two are longer–those are the side pieces. The front and back are the shorter ones.

Below you can see the tower top piece in place and the curved pieces.



The front with the curved pieces in place.

I pondered a lot about how to fill the gaps. Tear the shingles off and do it again? I’m not that diligent. This house is a learning experience more than anything else.

I rifled through my supplies and found some wood veneer strips I’d picked up from Cascade Miniatures ( I lined them up in the gap and they don’t look too bad. Almost like that’s what I was supposed to do!

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Hopefully others will find a better solution or not screw up like me!

You can see on the last picture that I’ve started putting in the windows. That’s next time!


Beacon Hill: Putting on the Exterior Trim

The next step in the Beacon Hill after the roof is to add the horizontal and vertical trim. First let’s get the rest of the roof on.


Shingling the front tower piece on lightweight cardboard before gluing to house.


The rest of the shingles set into place on the tower. Done!

Now for the horizontal and vertical trim. I had to pay close attention as there are no good photos or diagrams to follow in the instructions. But I got there.


These are the horizontal pieces. From top to bottom we have right wall, right front wall, right front tower wall (the small one), and the tower back and front and tower sides. Note that the tower sides are each longer than the back and front pieces.

Note 2 The kitchen bay trim is also with this, but not in my picture, because I forgot about it. But best to paint those at the same time. There are 3 pieces for the kitchen bay horizontal trim (one long, two short).

I painted everything in my trim color (ivory).


The pieces are glued on in this order: 1) right side.


2) right front; and 3) right front tower (the small piece)


4) Kitchen bay long trim


5) Kitchen bay back and front horizontal trim (ignore the vertical for now). The back piece is longer than the front piece.


6) The tower sides; then 7) the tower front and back.


While that was drying, I decided to complete the roof. I’m using a piece of brown handmade paper here, tacking it in the corners. There is wiring on the roof, so if I need to fix anything, I can lift off the paper. It’s cheap paper so easily replaced.

Vertical Trim

Lots of pieces of these. I highly recommend finding them on the schematic drawings, punching them out, and labeling them with a sharpie on the back (make sure it’s the back! The back will be much rougher wood than the front).


This photo is of all the vertical trim (plus the kitchen bay horizontal trim in the back, which I’d forgotten to paint with the others; hence it’s in this photo).


I started with the right back trim–it’s a long piece that goes on the right edge of the right wall.


Another piece goes on the left side of the right wall. Note: I skipped this for now (this is a later photo), because I needed to finish the copper on the kitchen bay roof–the vertical trim piece is cut at an angle to fit with the kitchen bay roof.


The right front right trim has a notch that goes over the porch trim.


Then a piece on the left side of the right front wall (with me so far?).


Next the tower right trim.

Note–Because I cut the house in half, there is no vertical trim piece for the left side of the tower. If you put together the whole house, like a normal person, there is a short piece that fits on the left side of the tower and up against the mansard roof of the left wing.


Vertical trim also goes on the right front wall bottom (on the porch), as does the right tower vertical trim. (Still with me?)


When I asked, what about the right side of the porch? That’s covered by the Kitchen Bay Front vertical trim. Here’s the Kitchen Bay Front glued in place (taped until dry). Kitchen Bay Back goes on the same way, just in the back.


Another shot of the kitchen bay with all trim in place.

Let me stop and cover the kitchen bay roof with copper. I bought copper sheeting from Used the kitchen bay roof itself, unfolded, as a template.



Tip: It’s best to glue the roof on the house first then glue the copper sheet to it.


Tip 2: Pre-crease the corners of the copper.

Tip 3: Use kleenex or wear gloves to handle so the oils in your skin don’t stain the copper.


The copper roof in place. Now I can glue the vertical trim on the  wall above it.

Next, the corner blocks! The corner trim blocks are all on sheet 23, and for me, that’s the one that shattered.


So, here I am back in the box / bags of the remnants of sheet 23. Amazingly, I found all twelve corner blocks.



Notice that each of these make a pair. Run the grain the same way on each part of the pair.



Painted my trim color.

The instructions say that these go in the “intersections of the horizontal and vertical trim on each wall.” Um. Ok. I stared t the house a while until I got it (no photos!)


You can see the corner blocks at in place where horizontal and vertical trims meet.

I’m a bit puzzled why there are twelve. I understand where ten go: right wall, right front, tower front, left front (when I put the other side together), and left wall (when I put the other side together). That’s five walls, two each, equals ten. But two are left. Hmm. The photo of the house on the box doesn’t show me any other place to put the trim (and that photo only shows a limited view).


More of the corner trim in place.

Because my house walls are warped, I have gaps in my trim. I’ll be filling that in later (trimming the trim).

Next time–The mansard roof trim.