Beacon Hill Left Side: Roof Trim and Chimney

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Learning my lesson from the other side of the house, I’m gluing on the roof trim before I do the shingles.

Horizontal trim pieces across the top of the mansard roof pieces, plus the curved trim. I had a time finding all the pieces for this trim, as I mentioned. I lucked out finding the short roof trim piece, which I think is H-3. There is a black hole in my hobby room, I swear. I punch out a piece, put it somewhere safe … and never see it again.

I also discovered I should have put in this chimney piece before the roof goes on. The roof piece goes over it. I did not, because I wanted to put bricks on the chimney, but knew if I did that before roofing, I’d probably ruin the brick veneer. Sigh. Fortunately, I was able to slip the piece down the gap between chimney and roof, after I bricked.

The pieces for the chimney. It’s a good idea to make a small mark on which are the chimney trim pieces,which are the flue trim, and which are the “middle” pieces that make up the flue.

Constructing the flue. This piece goes good side down, and the “middle” pieces are glued to it, following the edges. Like so:

Then, spread glue on the edges of the middle pieces (as I’ve done above), and glue the second side of the flue to the top. Like so:

I discovered I should have painted the pieces first, because you’ll be able to see inside the hollow tubes once the chimney is finished. But, I wanted to make sure they fit together square without warping. It was easy enough to paint the inside.

Now for the flue trim.

This is fairly straightforward–long sides on the long side, ends on the ends.

Once the flue was painted and drying, I did the brick chimney and glued on the trim.

The other side of the trim in place over the bricks.

The large pieces of the chimney top trim glued together. Instructions say to build this box first and then slide it over the chimney. Check it first. I had to sand down the insides to make it fit.

Fitting the trim–it rests on the lip on top of the chimney formed by the front and back trim already there (the instructions call them the left and right trims; they mean the trims that cover the sides–and my bricks).

You’ll be able to see inside this box once the chimney is done, so it should be painted as well. If you’re using a lighter color for the chimney, I suggest black for the inside.

Chimney trim around the top, plus my bricks, plus the roof trim around the chimney.

Next goes the narrow chimney trim around the wider pieces. I found it easier to glue the short ends on first, as they are flush, and then the longer pieces fit over the ends of the short pieces.

Below is what that looks like when finished.

Next, cut scrap pieces of wood that are 1/2 inch wide. These are spaces that go down inside the chimney box for the flue base to rest on. You won’t see these (they’re covered by the flue base), so you don’t need to paint.

The instructions say to set the flue base on top of the spacers and then thread the flue through the holes in the flue base. However–I found the holes weren’t quite large enough, so I had to trim them. It was such a tight fit in the end that I decided to thread the flue through the holes, measuring off 1/2 inch, and then putting it into the chimney. I knew I’d be struggling and cursing to fit the flue into the base if I didn’t do it first!

The finished flue and base set inside the chimney box.

That’s it! It’s done!

The next step in the instructions is the regular windows (plus the double window). Since I’ve already demonstrated those on the other side of the house, I moved forward to the bay windows, and their challenges.

Next post, I’ll put together the front bay window.

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Beacon Hill Left Side: Roof and Trim

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Sconces done and installed on the third floor!

Now for the roof.

The mansard roof base goes on first, then the roof supports fit into slots. I also have the flat roof top painted and installed. It’s best to finish the ceiling side of the roof top as well, because it will be tough to get in there to paint once the roof is done.

I couldn’t figure out what this piece was for, because it had come separated from the others months ago. I finally realized it went on the short roof side, the one that would be up against the tower if I’d kept the house together. (I also finally found it in the instructions.)

The instructions say to put this piece in first, then the roof, then the piece I have it resting against (3A) last. I found it easier to put the 3A piece on first. 3A looks like this from the other side:

I will trim that corner when I’m ready to do interior trim. You can see how I’ve finished the ceiling.

Next step is to paint and put on the roof top trim and the mansard base trim (which runs along the mansard base).

Both these photos show the mansard base trim running around the edge. It overhangs 1/4 inch.

Now for the roof panels!

First, the chimney side. I had to sand the roof piece a little to get it to fit around the chimney. These clamps are wonderful for holding the curved roof in place while the glue dries.

The instructions say to do the short (right side) roof first, and then the front roof, but I found it easier to do the front first, especially as I don’t have the rest of the house on the right side.

For those not cutting the house in half, the lower corner of this wall will fit against the tower. I’ll have to cover it or think of something fun to do with it.

While the roof was drying I went ahead and put together the front bay window roof.

When figuring out how the bay roof pieces go, it helps to note that the grain of the wood kind of flows in the same direction. Make sure the good side is down when you add the masking tape hinge.

The roof, good side up, on top of the bay window. (This is set into place to test–the pieces went together more smoothly when I glued them.)

The horizontal and some of the vertical trim being painted. I somehow lost the horizontal trim for the front side of the house and had to cut another. I am finding I’m missing small pieces of trim, which fell out of the punch-out sheets when I built the right side of the house. I swore I collected them all into boxes, but I’m still missing bits. Fortunately they’re fairly standard sized wood strips (1/2-inch; 1/4 inch).

Pictured from top to bottom are front bay bottom horizontal trim, vertical trim pieces, front bay horizontal trim (the short, wide pieces), and front and left side horizontal trim. I cut a new piece of horizontal trim for the front from scraps from the house sheets.

The trim glued in place with the corner trim pieces (at top of house) also in place. I’ll continue the same kind of trim on the garage floor later. Also I’m not putting in the left bay, because I’m going to use it as the front door.

Next I will trim the roof and chimney. I learned my lesson on the other side, and I’ll wait to shingle until everything is trimmed. I think we finish up the chimney after that.

It’s getting there!

 

Beacon Hill: Third Floor and Roof Prep

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Building a dollhouse, like writing a book, involves lots of little decisions. To move forward, I need to put the roof on, but before I do that, I want to wire sconces in the third-floor room. Before I do that, I need to wallpaper that room, but I also need to figure out where the fireplace goes because I don’t want wallpaper there.

I skipped all the way to the end of the instructions (no!) to figure out the third-floor fireplace. Because it’s built in, there is only the trim and two pieces for the mantel. The piece with the long tab goes into the slot.

This helps me figure out where I want the wallpaper to stop–the fireplace will be a painted panel all the way to the ceiling, and the rest of the walls papered.

 

I’ve painted and glued the mansard roof support base to the outside of the walls and temporarily set in the roof supports. As you can see I’ve also started to paint the outside walls of the lower floors. The color might be too dark green for me, but I’ll see how it turns out.

Beginning the sconces. These will have dangles on them–it took me an entire episode of Outlander to make six of the nine dangly bits for one sconce! The pliers weren’t cooperating.

I guess it will take me another two episodes to finish both sconces. Fortunately I’m only on season one.

I’ll wallpaper and fix up the fireplace, install the sconces, and move on to the roof.

Beacon Hill: Chimney

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I have the walls papered (will be trimmed with molding), and the ceiling started, but I decided to wait on the chandeliers until I have more of the structure built so I don’t damage anything.

Going back to the building instructions, the next step on the outside is the chimney.

Pieces from left to right: chimney sides, chimney top (small piece at top), third floor hearth (small piece at bottom), and the chimney outside trim.

The third-floor hearth gets inserted into the fireplace hole. You have to turn the piece sideways and wriggled it in there. The tab in the back goes through the outside wall.

Sides go on the sides–the side with one tab faces the house, the two tabbed side faces the outside of the house. I constantly got these turned around.

The top fits onto the sides.

The trim goes on like this.

Before gluing, I lined the hearth and chimney with brick paper so it looks more realistic.

The hearth with the chimney sides now glued in place.

Chimney sides and top in place. I left the top unglued (just pushed it into the slots) in case I need to change or fix something later.

I am not putting the chimney trim on yet until I decide what colors to paint the house and trim. Plus I might want to brick the outside of the chimney.

I have to run off to a conference, but when I return, I’m going to the hardware store to get latex paint for the outside so I can get started finishing the outside and settling it on top of the garage. I will probably also put a light on one of the third floor windowsills as I did to the other half of the house before putting on the roof.

It’s coming along!

 

Beacon Hill: Left side top floor, front bay, interior

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I’m setting the house on top of the garage kit from Hobby Builders Supply. My idea is to run stairs up the outside on the left to a porch (which I’ll build), having the front entrance where the side bay window is. I’ll build that later.

For now, I’ve added the walls to the third floor, and given them a primer coat of latex paint.

I realized I should put the bay window on the front, so if I’m wallpapering the inside, I don’t mess it up trying to decorate the interior of the bay.

Bay window parts are pretty simple–the middle and two sides (middle is bigger), plus an “extension” piece and trim for the top. The thinner part of the window wall goes on top (shown here).

The windows fit easily onto the tabs that extend out from the house.

The extension piece (the smaller of the two half octagonal pieces) goes here. It sort of rests on the edges.

The trim piece goes on the extension pieces, overlapping evenly on all sides.

For now, I’m leaving the extension and trim pieces off, because I’m still not sure what colors I’ll use for the exterior.

Back inside. I want a fireplace wall that I’ll trim off, so I painted it with three coats of antique white craft paint and two coats of clear gloss finish (Deco Art is the brand I’m using).

The opening on the right will be the front entrance / porch.

Wallpaper added. All the wallpaper I bought for this house didn’t look quite right when I put it with the flooring and the furniture that will be in here. But oh well. Stock for another house!

This is scrapbook paper. I decided to be a little eclectic. I’ll wallpaper the insides of the bay as well.

Next, finishing the ceilings! And possibly making chandeliers. Or maybe I’ll do more of the structure before installing lights.

Beacon Hill: Left side continued

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I’ve glued together the left and left front walls and put in the second floor. I went all over it with a thin coat of latex to seal the wood and then started laying in the electric tape.

As you can see, I cut a hole in the second floor for the stairs I’ll put in myself.

Added the third floor and finished putting in the tape wiring. This used a 15 ft. roll of the tape.

I decided against a staircase going to floor three so I could have more room on the floor for furniture. I’m thinking I’ll leave two sides open, so more can be seen, which means I’ll have to put in columns to brace the unsupported corners.

What I learned from building the first half: Glue together the walls before painting and decorating. Warpage is greatly reduced. You can make paper patterns of the walls for wallpaper and install after running in the tape wiring (if using tape wiring).

What I learned from other projects: Bending the tape wire in 90-degree turns is much faster and easier than splicing. I show more details on tape wiring here: https://jennsminis.wordpress.com/2015/08/10/half-scale-bungalow-lights/

Now to decorate walls and ceilings, make and put in lights. I’m going to attempt some ornate chandeliers. I’m excited to be progressing!

Back to the Beacon Hill

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I’m returning to work on the Beacon Hill, ready to tackle the second side of the house! I cut it apart, remember? So far I like what I’ve done with the first side, but let’s see what happens!

My dear husband got me a gift certificate to HBS, so I bought this lovely staircase, which I will put in the left portion of the house.

I plan to leave both the back and side open so more of the interior can be viewed. The staircase will block too much if only the back is open, and I want the pretty furniture I’ve collected for this part of the house to be seen.

I’m also going to put this half on top of a garage, and I believe I’ll replace the side bay window with a front door.

More to come.

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