Beacon Hill: Trimming the Interior

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I thought I needed to take a break from the Beacon Hill–I was going to do another project–but then I turned the house around and looked inside. No, I want to finish! I was inspired to keep going with moldings and trim, plus finishing the lamp for the kitchen.

The kitchen needs a lot of trimming from the bay window trim in the kit to baseboards, cornices, an L-molding to cover the gap in the corner (from warping). The inside of the door needs to be trimmed out, and a doorframe put in.

Painting. The piece with the curlicue ends is the bay window molding. It took me a while to figure out how it fit!

Everything glued in place (below). The bay window molding fits onto the edges of the bay window opening walls. (It makes sense when you stick it in there and see that it fits exactly in the opening.) The kitchen shelf (from the kit), fits over notches that stick out from the windows into the kitchen.

Next I trimmed out the main hall. Needed to cover raw edges and make everything look neater. I covered the ends of the staircase posts as well with stained boards.

The molding painted, varnished, and in place (below).

The second floor hall trim cut and waiting for painting and installation.

Back to the kitchen–needed to finish the light before I put in flooring and trim in room above it. It works!!

So this is what I’ve been doing behind the scenes. More trimming in the upstairs rooms to come.Almost done!

Then it will be back to the outside to build a wall and do the final work.

 

Beacon Hill: Front Door

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The front door is quite lovely–it’s too bad it’s usually hidden in most photos I see of the Beacon Hill.

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The pieces for the front door are on sheet 23, my infamous sheet that disintegrated. I managed to find all the parts!

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All the parts punched out and ready. We have two door trims which are sandwiched together, and three parts to the doors (outer, middle, inner), which are also sandwiched together.

The interesting thing is, the front door trim has a big fanlight, but there is none in the house wall itself.

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This gives you some interesting possibilities. You could leave it so the painted wall shows through, you could put a louvred fan up there, paint it a different color, or try out stained glass.

I thought about it, and decided to look through an adult coloring book type box of cards I bought myself (“art therapy”), and see if I could find a good pattern that looks like stained glass.

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Found this one, so I’m going to go with it.

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The doors are in 3 parts: The front, middle, and back (interior). The front and back are exactly the same. The middle parts have the solid panel in the bottom.

The middle gets sandwiched between the front and back, with the plastic window between the middle and back.

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When the door panels are put together, the middle will show through the frame of the front (and back). Here is what the front will look like with the trim.

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What it will look like from the back (which is amazingly the same).

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Everything painted with my colors. I’ve glued the front panels (red) onto the middle, which I’ve painted white.

The plastic pane gets glued to the back of the middle panel, sandwiched between middle and back panels.

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The “stained glass” panel in place.

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The trim glued in place, clamped until dry.

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Trim and stained glass window in place.

Now, my doors, when I put together, were so warped that I couldn’t make them stay in straight inside the door opening. They’re almost twisted, and the frames keep falling apart (see?).

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So, I’m reconstructing them from scratch, using 1/4″ wood strips, plus a couple 1/2″ strips, and a some basswood for the middle panels.

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Outer doors made of 1/4″ strips, with 1/2″ strip for bottom piece.

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A square jig keeps everything straight.

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The inner panels are 1/4″ strips with a basswood insert of about 2 3/4″ high.

 

 

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All the pieces constructed.

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Door panels painted in my colors.

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Middle panels with plastic window inserts glued to them. I had to trim the plastic a little, but there’s enough around the edges to allow that.

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Doors finished.

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Glued in place in the house.

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Doors from the interior.

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House so far. Much more trimming to be done!

The only thing left on this side of the house is for the trims to the porch and the curlicue pieces that go all over the place to be painted on glued on. I’m going to hold off on that while I design and build the missing wall of the house.

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I’m going to do a wall with big bay windows on both floors so I’ll have more space to put furniture. I’ll show what happens in another post.

 

 

Beacon Hill: Tower Window

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The tower window is much like the dormer windows but put in in a little different sequence.

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All the parts of the tower window are on sheet 21.

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The parts punched out. Looks like a lot but many of them stack on top of each other.

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I’m saving the circles that come out of the windows–these would make great table tops or backs for round mirrors. Pre-cut for us!

Anyway, this is how it will all go together.

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The window sill and base (good side down).

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Medium sill goes underneath the base.

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Small sill goes over medium sill. This whole structure will be flipped over to insert through the window opening.

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The two half-circles of the trim get glued one on top of the other, outside edges flush.

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This is the outside trim–the piece with the decorative cutouts goes over the piece without.

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The Ls will be glued smaller on larger, as in the dormer windows.

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The window sash (piece with smallest hole) will go behind the outside trim. Here’s how it will all look when the window is put together, including the half-circle trim on top.

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But first, to paint to my color scheme. The small rectangular pieces will become the arched roof of the window (like the dormers). The larger rectangles are the sides.

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The base and sill inserted into the tower window opening. The stacked sill pieces go underneath.

Now…

The instructions have you glue the sides to the sash and then put in the arched roof before sliding it all into the window opening. I knew if I did that I’d be sanding like crazy to make it fit, so I built the window inside the opening like I did the dormers.

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Here I’ve glued the sides to the sash (sorry forgot to snap a shot of that), then started building the arch with the small rectangles. As you can see, the last has to be massively trimmed and sanded.

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All the pieces in place. The instructions also tell you to put the window plastic onto the sash (on the inside) before you glue this in, but I feared getting glue, spackel, and sanding dust on it, so I saved it for last.

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The window arch pieces spackled.

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The front trim glued on.

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The Ls added, both facing inward, small on bottom. Here I’ve also added the half-circle trim, which rests on the Ls.

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Another shot.

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Added the window plastic from inside (a little tricky!). But it’s done!

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It’s getting there!

The next items in the instructions are the shutters and cellar window, but I decided to leap over those and go on to the French door. Could not wait! The French door / window will be the subject of my next post.

 

Beacon Hill: Dormer Windows

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The first tip I have for the dormer windows is to put them in before you shingle or otherwise finish the roof. They won’t fit otherwise.

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The jumble of parts that will become the dormer window.

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The front (left) and front trim (right). The trim has the thicker arch. Above those are the half-circle trims (which will be glued one on top of the other), and the window sash.

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Trim glued on top.

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This is the back. The window sash will fit exactly in the little groove.

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Like so. (This is what it will look like from the front.) Don’t glue in the sash yet! This is just an example of what it will look like. The sash will be the very last piece glued into the window.

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Sill / base. The two sill / base pieces are glued one on top of the other. The piece with the tabs on its sides is the bottom (I’d show you, but this sill was already glued in place, which I did beforehand so I could wire the lamp through it).

The sill goes all the way through the opening, with the narrower sill on the inside wall, the larger sill on the outside.

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The side slides down beside the sill, the notch at bottom hooking up to the tab on the bottom of the sill (which you can’t see, but it’s down there).

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The side in place–it will be flush against the inside wall.

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With both sides in place, I added the front. The feet of the window front fits (in theory) into the notches of the window sill. Notice I had to take off shingles to get everything to fit.

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The L-shaped pieces. They’re glued together so the inside edge is flush.

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I’ve added the L shaped pieces to the tops of the front. The short sides of the Ls face inward.

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What the Ls look like from the top.

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Now for the arch. There are eight pieces that will be glued in around the window’s arch. The first piece is in position here.

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What the first piece of the arch looks like from inside. The end is flush with the inside wall. (The piece should be more on top of the side, but it slipped.)

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Put the pieces in on alternating sides. Here you can see I’ve done the first pieces on both right and left sides, and the second piece on the left side. Note that the end of each piece rests on the window’s top. The edges will be covered by the half-round trim.

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As you go, you’ll see that the pieces start to angle. That’s ok. The last piece will be trimmed to fit. Note that I’ve put the “good” side on the inside. That is because I knew I’d be sanding and repainting the outside once done, but it will be much too hard (and messy) to repaint the inside. So the other side of these boards are finished and varnished already.

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The last piece, sanded to fit. These sand down easily with coarse sandpaper (say 100) on a sanding block.

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Once I had all the pieces in place, I sanded then spackled the whole arch to smooth out the edges and make it rounder.

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Next, I glued on the top trim (which I sandwiched together earlier–the feet should be flush and the smaller piece centered on the larger).

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I glued the plastic window to the sash (I’m using Alene’s clear tacky–little dots around the window sash). Now the sash can be glued, from the inside, to the grove in the frame.

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And there you have it. I’ll have to put in the shingles and add trim around the window a bit, but it’s done.

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Both dormer windows now in place.

Next, the tower window! Good. I’m getting tired of windows! 🙂

Beacon Hill: Kitchen Bay Windows

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Because the single windows were fairly easy, I hoped the kitchen bay would be more of the same. No!!

Mostly because the pieces for the kitchen bay window are on the sheet that disintegrated on me when I pulled it out of the box.

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As you can see below, the pieces were warped or broken, making this step a challenge.

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I managed to pull everything out and sort it.

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A tip–mark the pieces of the sill and top trim before you lose track, because unlike in the single window, the pieces for top and bottom are NOT the same size. In my photo below, the pieces for the sill are at the top of the picture–large, medium small.

Next comes the kitchen shelf (the straight piece with no notches).

Then the 3 top trim pieces for the window: large, medium, small.

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Basically the sill pieces will look like this–large on bottom, medium and small on top.

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The sill and trim pieces did not easily fit around the window openings in the house. I had to file the notches to make them bigger.

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The largest sill piece more or less wrestled into place. The medium and small will be stacked on top of it.

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All three set in place.

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Because of the warpage, I had to clamp these when I glued them in. You can see that I had the warpage problem with the top pieces as well.

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In fact, the top pieces were even worse.

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Per the instructions, we are supposed to put the window sashes in after the sills (like the single windows), then the outside trim, then inside.

Because my inside trim was so warped and broken, and I knew I’d need to clamp it, I decided to put on the inside trim first.

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Inside trim clamped in place to dry. Note I have glued the broken piece on, on the right (you can see the glue line).

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The sashes are a little warped as well, but I managed to put them together and weight them while they dried, so it wasn’t too bad.

But then–Argh! Two of the three sashes would not fit inside the window openings!

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Therefore–sanding, sanding, sanding the openings in the house before the sashes would fit. (I did this before I glued on the interior trim. A good reason to do a dry run!)

Above I have the windows finally fitted in. You can see the upper trim is still very warped despite the clamping. I will have to fix that later.

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Now I’ve glued on the exterior trim, clamped with tape. When I glued the trim together (thinner on top of thicker), and weighted it, the warpage was reduced enough that all I needed was tape to hold it in place.

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Inside, the kitchen shelf fits across the sill and just under the ends of the interior trim. I didn’t glue it in place yet–will do that later when I start trimming the interior and figure out where my furniture is going.

I will have to do some fixing and touch up to this window, but it’s done for now, and I’m moving on!

Next time, the dormer windows, which present their own challenges.

Beacon Hill: Single Windows

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The single windows of the Beacon Hill are pretty straightforward. I remember when putting together the Fairfield, I couldn’t make the windows look decent, so I purchased Houseworks windows, but I like how they designed the Beacon Hill ones. They’ve made them so you can paint the parts different colors for a nice contrast.

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The pieces: 3 sill parts (the short, horizontal ones), 3 top trim parts, two window sashes (the ones with the crosspiece), two exterior trim pieces (side by side on the left), the outside sill trim piece, and the interior trim (on the right).

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I labeled the sill and top trim pieces to keep them separate. They are actually the same size, it turned out, so if you get them mixed up it’s ok–as long as you have a small, medium, and large of each.

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The sill pieces ready to go in on my dry run (I highly recommend a dry run before you start painting and gluing!) The pieces go in this order: 1) small 2) medium, 3) large

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The smallest sill piece in place on the bottom of the window. I had to enlarge the notches a little with a needle file.

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Medium sill piece goes on top of small.

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Large sill piece on top.

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What it looks like edge on.

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The top trim pieces are the same, except they go on 1) large, 2) medium, 3) small.

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The large top trim in place.

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Edge on so you can see large, medium, small.

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Sashes. The clear window plastic will go between these.

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Taped together for the dry run.

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Sash set in place (not glued yet).

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The narrower exterior trim piece goes on top of the thicker one.

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The exterior piece taped together for the dry run and put in place over the window sash.

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The sill trim piece goes here.

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The whole thing.

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Now to paint. I decided to paint the exterior sash the red to go with my color scheme.

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The exterior trim painted and glued together.

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The edges of the trim are rough, so I spackled and sanded to get a more even surface.

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The plastic sheet of window panes. The amazing thing is that in all the years of this kit sitting in my closet–I didn’t lose the plastic sheet! It hasn’t been inside the box for ages. A miracle.

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I’ve glued in the painted sills and top trim pieces.

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The two sash pieces are glued together with the plastic sheet sandwiched in between. The sash is now glued into the window opening. It should fit exactly–if not, sand the opening (another reason to do a dry run first).

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The exterior trim on the window, and the sill piece glued below. It needs a little sanding and finishing (this kit has many raw edges), but the window is complete. (I will do the interior trim when I finish the interior).

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First window complete. The red of the sash picks up the red in the porch trim.

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The tower window done as well.

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All three front windows in place. This is starting to look like a house!

Next post–the kitchen bay window.

Happy New Year!

Beacon Hill: Mansard Roof Trim

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The mansard roof trim is pretty straightforward. First it’s best to punch out and label all the pieces according to the schematic sheet. (There is both horizontal and vertical trim.) I used a sharpie to write the names on the back–the backs won’t show once the pieces are glued on.

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Notice the each of the curved mansard trim pieces form a pair, one curved right and one left. (These look like cartoon palm trees to me :-))

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Also note that there is a definite top and bottom to each pair. The top has a more square angle, the bottom is more angular. The squarer end goes at the top against the top roof trim.

First, the straight pieces go horizontally across the top of the roof on the right side of the house, and vertically on the front against the tower as here:

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The horizontal top trim piece on the right side of the house and the vertical piece on the back.

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Now for the curved pieces. Note how the squarer end goes against the horizontal trim from the last step and ends at the bottom trim.

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I used plenty of tape to hold these pieces in place until the glue set.

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You’ll see I have an ugly gap. This is because the pieces don’t compensate for the thickness of the shingles. I have a layer of shingles and a layer of thin cardboard beneath it, which has distorted the dimensions of the roof.

I could have 1) compensated and only shingled to where the trim piece would fall; or 2) used sandpaper or paint to simulate shingles instead of using real ones.

Live and learn. I came up with a solution to fill the gap, which I’ll show later.

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The tower top horizontal pieces. Notice that two are longer–those are the side pieces. The front and back are the shorter ones.

Below you can see the tower top piece in place and the curved pieces.

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The front with the curved pieces in place.

I pondered a lot about how to fill the gaps. Tear the shingles off and do it again? I’m not that diligent. This house is a learning experience more than anything else.

I rifled through my supplies and found some wood veneer strips I’d picked up from Cascade Miniatures (http://www.led-n-minis.com/) I lined them up in the gap and they don’t look too bad. Almost like that’s what I was supposed to do!

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Hopefully others will find a better solution or not screw up like me!

You can see on the last picture that I’ve started putting in the windows. That’s next time!

 

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